Trail signs (Left to right from top): GR65, GR34, GR3, GR3 / E5, GR1, GR22
Our Trekking the Planet adventures have taken us around the globe while completing multiple day treks on all six of the world’s populated continents. This latest journey took us through France, hiking 340 miles over 26 stages. After all the trekking we have done we don’t encounter many surprises, but we continue to discover new things wherever we go.
So here are the seven things that stood out to us the most during this adventure:
1. Be Prepared for all Kinds of Weather
Given that we trekked for hours each day, it is no wonder that weather was an important factor for us. Over the years we have dealt with literally every type of weather and trail. However, in just 26 days of hiking in France we were amazed at the diversity of conditions we faced, ranging from temperatures in the low 40s F to low 90s F, pouring rain, strong winds, and muddy paths.
Snow had fallen a few days before we began our first GR65 trek in mid-April. It had melted, but the mornings were cold (in the low 40s F). Chilly mornings aside, we actually had the best overall weather on this 132-mile trek, with mild temperature days and just a few minutes of rain.
Moving to the coast of Brittany a month later, we faced a couple of frigid and windy stages (in the low 40s F before wind chill). For the first day of the GR34 I even added a t-shirt under my sun hoodie and hiked with those two layers and a jacket for the entire 16.2-mile stage.
Hiking in cold weather on the GR65 and GR34
When we trekked the GR3 trail in the Loire Valley in early May, we had our worst periods of rain. A couple of times we walked for hours as it poured. Fortunately, our rain jackets kept us dry and backpack covers kept our contents from getting wet. Our pants did get soaked, but we both wore quick drying material. It is always a fine line for us whether to bring rain pants, but given the temperatures on this trek, we felt comfortable leaving them home.
Hiking in the steady rain was uncomfortable, and it was difficult to find a place to take a break and eat a snack. We had to resort to leaning on a hunting platform in one case because there was just nowhere else to stop.
Finding a hunting platform to take a break on the GR3
On our final GR1 / GR22 trek to Paris, we tackled a familiar problem: mud. We had already hiked through a few muddy areas during one day of the GR3, but we were surprised to encounter it again in late May. Fortunately, it was nothing like the mud we encountered during our 2024 Via Francigena trek in Italy, but It did slow us down during the first two days of this hike.
The heat was a more serious problem. We had timed our trekking to complete the 340 miles by the end of May. But a record heat dome descended over parts of Europe, and the last three days of our trek were hot… really hot. Since we hiked primarily in the forest, the shade made a huge difference.
Even so, the times we walked in the direct sun were difficult. We even ran low on water at one point. After finding a water fountain and refilling, we were in a better position to finish our stage.
Mud on the GR1; Temperature during the final day of our trek into Paris on the GR22
2. Stay as Light as Possible, but Backpacks, Trekking Poles, and Shoes are Crucial
In the backpacking world, there is a group of items known as the “Big Three.” Your shelter (tent), sleep system (quilt or bag), and backpack are the heaviest items, and optimizing these three things is crucial to reducing your overall pack weight. For the village-to-village trekking world, I would argue that while pack weight is also important, having the right backpacks, poles, and shoes are just as vital for a successful experience.
We actually own three sets of backpacks. One is a 58-liter we use for classic backpacking, one is a 40-liter for everyday travel, and the last is the one for trips such as these. Our 40-liter REI Trail packs were first purchased for our 2022 Trekking the British Isles journey, and have become a crucial part of our gear. Not only are they carry-on compliant, but the packs easily hold all of our items for multiple month trips such as this.
The reason we used these 40-liter packs vs our everyday 40-liter backpacks are their roomy side pockets. We use the pockets to carry everything from multiple liters of water, to loaves of bread, bananas, and the occasional bottle of beer or wine that we transport to a remote evening accommodation. Another pack advantage is the black color, which looks sleeker as we travel by train or bus between treks.
Using trekking poles is a personal choice, but I can’t imagine hiking most trails without them. Every time before we leave on a trek, Darren asks me if we really need to bring poles. And again on this trip he told me after a tough and rocky stage how happy he was that we had them.
While we may not have needed them every day of this journey, they sure came in handy during steep ascents and descents, and for balance when traversing through mud or across streams. Because they need to be checked on flights (and we carry on everything else), we buy poles at the beginning and donate them at the end of a journey. This time, in Paris, they were very happy to accept them at a local thrift store.
Using our poles on GR65 and GR34 climbs
We have been big Hoka shoe fans since switching to them in 2018. For this trek we again used their Challenger shoe, which is a multi-surface trail runner model. Since we each only carried a pair of sandals as our other footwear, we relied on the Hokas quite a bit. One added bonus is that this shoe came in black, which meant they looked nice when we wore them around town. And none of us developed any blisters while trekking.
Wearing our Hoka shoes at the beginning of the GR65 (mile 1) and the end of the GR1 / GR22 (mile 340)
To stay light, our clothes were kept to a minimum: one outfit for trekking, a couple of shirts and pants for travel and rest days, the rain jacket, a fleece layer, and underwear and socks. Most everything could be washed out in the sink (using laundry sheets) and be dry by the next morning. This kept our total pack weight (without food and water) to about 15 pounds each.
3. Get Creative to Make any Major Fixes
During any long trip, things can wear out or break. Fortunately, many items can be replaced on the road if needed. On this journey we encountered something that shocked us – freak damage to Darren’s backpack. This pack had been solid for the last four years and over 2,500 miles of trekking. But as we arrived in Europe, we discovered that a section of the pack’s sternum strap was gone. It had somehow torn away from the backpack in transit and left a gaping hole on one of the shoulder straps.
With our first trek just days away, we decided to try to repair the pack rather than buy a replacement. This was a two-step process: first Darren used a combination of sewing (with the kit we carry with us) and super glue to close the shoulder strap hole.
Once that was complete, we needed to get creative (aka “MacGyver” something) to construct a new sternum strap. We laid out all the items we had with us to determine what could work. And using a combination of a carabiner, a velcro strap, and first aid tape, we created an adequate solution that made it through the trip.
4. The Route May Only be a Guideline
When we choose routes for treks we try to “vet” the trail by either buying a book or relying on quality blogs and websites. This method gives us insight into trail conditions, accommodations, water availability, and popularity. For the four treks we completed in France this was no different: we bought books for the GR65 and GR34 and reviewed several websites and blogs for the GR3.
However, preparing for our final GR1 / GR22 trek was different. On the French GR website, I noted that there were trails that ended in Paris. Wanting to finish our last trek there, I worked backwards to create a custom 71-mile, five-stage path, using portions of the GR1 and GR22. But, similar to the 62-mile Joshua Tree National Park traverse that we created several years ago, I had no real evidence of what it would be like to actually hike it.
To reduce risk, we always build each day’s trekking route using the Gaia app. This provides us with the actual distance and elevation gain and loss, and ensures that we understand the difficulty of each stage. After creating the route for each day of the GR1 / GR22, we were more comfortable with the overall trek. And this route worked out fine, as the trail conditions and markings were consistent with the other GR paths that we hiked.
In fact, France has so many trails that there were always options if we needed them. During this journey we discovered that we could take more “spur-of-the-moment” path alternatives. If we saw a better way forward on the Gaia app, we occasionally took a chance and ventured off course. Sometimes it worked out, but in a couple of instances we realized we should have stayed on the original path.
We learned while trekking that the Gaia app has a layer option that displays restrooms and water faucets. Every time we found a bathroom or water faucet using the app we would say to each other, “Thank you Gaia!”
GR1 intersection with trail options; Bathroom marked on the app
Like on so many other treks, we occasionally encountered the dreaded trail closure sign – Route Barree in French. Sometimes there was a paper map displayed with the detour, and if we got lucky, even some signs to follow. In other instances, we had to pull out the Gaia app to figure out the trail alternative(s) to get us back on track as soon as possible.
Our goal on all our treks is to maintain continuous steps from each stage start to finish. So however we got there within our mileage parameters, it was fine with us. Even so, we did complete some bonus miles on a few days, due to these closures.
Route Barree (trail closure) on the GR3 and GR34
5. Enjoy the Local Food (But Not Eat at a Restaurant Every Night)
Food is always an important consideration when hiking day after day. A great meal can also be a highlight of the entire journey. Over the years we have developed a system that works for us when traveling abroad for periods of time. In France we used these same practices, but discovered some new ones.
On those occasions when we had short mileage (under 10 miles) or a rest day, we looked for fixed price lunch menus at desired restaurants. It was cheaper, easier to get a table, and we had a filling meal, meaning we could eat a lighter dinner. We used Google Translate to figure out the menu items before ordering.
GR3 menu board with fixed price lunch options; GR65 fixed price lunch menu
Many of our overnight stays did not include breakfast or had extra charges as high as 20 Euros (about $23.20) each for the two of us to eat. To save time and money, we opted for delicious bakery items and a cup of coffee before starting our hiking stage. Trying different croissants, muffins, quiches, and pastries was a treat for us.
Bakeries on the GR34 and GR65; Coffee on the GR65
Grocery stores and farmers’ markets have been food sources of ours since we completed our Trekking Europe journey in 2018. Not only do we save money, but we have the opportunity to build great picnics to enjoy on the trail.
Grocery stores are a great source for dinner on many nights. After a long day of hiking we don’t want to wait until at least 7:00 pm to begin dinner at a restaurant. And visiting a local grocery store is always an interesting experience.
On this trip we also identified another viable dinner option – take out meals. Many of them we could order on our phone and walk over to pick up when they were ready. Using these sources made the nights that we did have a restaurant dinner that much more special.
GR65 grocery dinner; GR3 Take out dinner
When we did eat at a restaurant, we prioritized trying a wide variety of regional specialties. This included Aligot (cheesy, mashed potato dish), and Rillons de Touraine (cubes of streaky pork belly caramelized by slow cooking). We also ate at iconic places, with a three course meal at the Royal Abbey of Our Lady of Fontevraud and an omelette cooked on an open wood fire at the Hotel La Mere Poulard on Mont-Saint-Michel.
The local food was all delicious and elevated our meal experiences.
Regional food specialties (Clockwise from upper left): GR65; Aligot – GR3; Rillons de Touraine; GR3 – Three course Abbey dinner; GR34 – Open wood fire omelette
6. Book a Variety of Accommodations
When planning village-to-village treks, booking accommodations can be a challenge. As we vet potential routes for a journey, nothing disqualifies a trek faster than a lack of overnight stay options on or near the trail. For this trip, booking accommodations were not as daunting as others we have planned. But it meant we needed to be open to a variety of options. No trek embodied the diversity of our overnight accommodations like the GR65. We booked a combination of hotels, guesthouses, bed & breakfasts, private gite (hostel) rooms, and even a cottage.
The differing overnight stays allowed us to take part in hostel communal dinners, meet guesthouse and B&B owners and play with their children, and enjoy chain hotel amenities (which we used for our rest days). The variety kept the stays interesting, and we looked forward to each place.
Communal dinner at a GR65 gite
GR65 accommodations (Clockwise from upper left): Cottage, hotel, hostel, and guesthouse (at the end of the street)
7. Be in the Moment and Celebrate the Journey
This last discovery is one that we continue to develop as we travel. Over time, we have learned that the moments in the journey are just as important as completing the trekking miles each day. On this trip we varied the mileage, providing us with the opportunity to slow down on some days. There were still some long stages (up to 17 miles a day), but we never felt rushed. We could easily stop for an extra break somewhere special, take more photos, and even have an extended lunch.
Between treks we added rest days to recharge and explore other cities and towns. One such stop was the medieval town of Cahors, located on a bend in the Lot River. Its 14th-century bridge is a UNESCO World Heritage site. We booked a room with a bridge view and enjoyed roaming around the historic center and eating at some wonderful restaurants.
Rest Days in Cahors between the GR65 and GR3
We also took a rest day during the 10-stage GR65 and seven-stage GR3. For our GR3 rest day in Tours we splurged a little and reserved a nice hotel room overlooking the Loire River. Near the end of the trip, we decided that we should have taken more rest days, and we will make these adjustments for next time.
As we encountered medieval towns, castles, forests, and coastline on this trip, we tried to be in the moment as much as possible. There was no better time to do that than during our GR3 castle stops. Our Chateau de Villandry visit was at the conclusion of a eight-mile stage, giving us the entire afternoon to tour the castle’s interior and take in the views. We went back to some areas multiple times just to savor the moment.
Finally, we took the time to celebrate the completion of each trek, whether it be in front of the church in Conques (GR65), at dinner on Mont-Saint-Michel (GR34), during our Chateau de Chambord visit (GR3), or on a floating Seine River bar next to the Notre-Dame Cathedral in Paris (GR1 / GR22). It provided us with another opportunity to be in the moment to acknowledge our trekking accomplishments.
Clockwise from upper left: Celebrating at the end of the GR65, GR34, GR3, and GR1 / GR22
Our Trekking France journey was occasionally challenging with weather and trail conditions, equipment failures, and food logistics. But we had an amazing opportunity to experience the cultural history and natural beauty in four very different areas of France. We feel so grateful to complete our trekking, as we continue to discover ways to make our travels even better for the next Trekking the Planet adventure.
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