May 27, 2026
As we have traveled around France over the past few weeks, we have been surprised at just how large the country is. In fact, France is just slightly smaller than the U.S. state of Texas. Forests cover about 30% of the country, making it the fourth-largest wooded area in the European Union behind Sweden, Finland, and Spain. And approximately half of France’s forests originated from royalty or were part of former abbeys.
By Francescab, CC BY-SA 3.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
During each of our three previous treks on the GR65 (Via Podiensis), GR3 (Loire River Trail), and GR34 (Customs Officers’ Path), we spent time walking in the forest. So it is not surprising that French forests have over 6,500 miles of hiking trails.
Forest trails on the GR65, GR3, and GR34
For our fourth and final trek we planned an extended time in the woods, as we created a 71-mile, five-stage custom route combining sections of two different GR trails. And our hike under the cool trees could not have come at a better time. A heat wave made each day more challenging as we trekked to our destination of the Notre-Dame Cathedral in Paris.
Before beginning our hike we spent a rest day visiting the Chartres Cathedral. The early 13th-century church is famous for its extensive collection of over 150 medieval stained-glass windows. The stained glass is also famous for its deep shade of blue, known as “Chartres Blue.”
Close-up of the stained glass and its “Chartres Blue” color
Trekking from a Chateau into the Forest
To start our trek we took a 30-minute train ride from Chartres to the town of Rambouillet. We began walking by joining the GR1 path. This trail is known as the Tour of Ile-de-France, and is a 350-mile hiking loop around the Paris metropolitan area.
The route took us immediately into the gardens and canals of the Chateau de Rambouillet. French King Francis I, who we had already encountered during several of our chateau visits in the Loire Valley, died at this castle in 1547. Later, the chateau was the summer residence of the Presidents of France from 1896 until 2009.
Walking on a path next to a canal and through the gardens at Chateau de Rambouillet
We were able to get a glimpse of the chateau from the gardens before leaving the area.
After venturing through a couple of small villages, we entered the Foret Domaniale de Rambouillet (Rambouillet National Forest). This forest is one of France’s largest, covering about 77 square miles. Historically it was used for hunting by French kings.
There are 138 different tree species found in the French woods. As we hiked, we observed pine, oak, sycamore, and aspen trees. Some of the trees were quite tall, and we had to crane our necks to view them.
There was a maze of trails to navigate through in the forest, with path options at some intersections going off in four or five directions. Fortunately, we were able to stay on course using the app on my phone and Darren’s watch.
One of the many intersections on the path; Screenshot of the course on my phone using the Gaia app (in red).
Another highlight in the forest was the occasional etang or pond. We took a lunch break next to one and counted several herons in the water as we ate.
Because it had rained so much over the past few weeks, some sections of the path were muddy, requiring us to plot our way around them.
However, the trail was generally flat, with just a few steep climbs.
At the top of one ascent we had a nice vista of the forest around us. It was amazing to see so much unpopulated land less than 30 miles from Paris.
At the end of the 15.2-mile stage we turned away from the forest to head into the village of Saint-Leger-en-Yvelines, where we checked into a guesthouse for the night.
A Warmer Stage and Train Scramble
During our French hiking stages we have had mostly cool (and sometimes rainy) weather. However, a heat wave was now on its way. And we had a long day of 17 miles to complete with high temperatures in the low 80s and 60% humidity.
After leaving the town of Saint-Leger-en-Yvelines we went back into the Rambouillet National Forest. The trees were not as tall and dense, but the canopy kept us out of the sun as we hiked.
While in the forest we left the GR 1 and joined the GR 22. This trail runs about 350 miles from Normandy to Paris.
About 4.5 miles into the stage, we exited the forest via a beautiful lake and took a moment to admire it.
Soon after we reached the town of Montfort-l’Amaury. Perched on a hill were the remains of a castle that was destroyed by the English during the Hundred Years’ War (1337 – 1453).
Passing through Montfort-l’Amaury
On the edge of town we stopped at a grocery store to buy some water and food for lunch. We walked about three more miles through some fields in the midday sun before eating our lunch on a bench in the next village.
It was hot and there was a climb coming up. So we opted to hike in the shade on neighborhood sidewalks rather than ascend through more fields in the direct sun. After joining back with the main path, we entered the Sainte-Apolline Departmental Forest. The cooler trail under the tree cover was welcome as the temperature continued to rise.
With about 1.3 miles to go we turned off the path to the town of Plaisir. At the end of the stage we arrived at a suburban rail station. The train to our overnight destination of Versailles ran every half-hour, and the next one was leaving in less than 5 minutes. We found the right ticket machine, bought cards and loaded fares, and ran to the correct track just as the train doors had closed. Undeterred, I pressed the button on the train door, and it opened again. The moment we jumped inside the train, it began to move away from the station.
It had been a long day, and we were happy to reach our hotel that much sooner. And it was especially sweet because we were spending two nights in Versailles.
Trekking in the Heat Wave to a Palace Vista
The next morning we took a 20-minute train ride back to Plaisir. We would walk back to our Versailles hotel during the 14.9-mile day. Staying in the Versailles hotel for a second night provided us with the luxury of “slack packing” the stage, meaning we could hike lighter by leaving our extra gear in the room.
Once we exited the train we walked to a nearby bakery and grocery store to buy breakfast and lunch. The forecast was for hotter temperatures in the high 80s F. However, we were fortunate to spend about 75% of the stage in the forest, making the hiking tolerable.
After leaving Plaisir we began walking in the Bois-d’Arcy National Forest. This land was originally part of the Versailles royal domain.
Walking through the Bois-d’Arcy National Forest early in the stage
As we got closer to Paris, we heard more train and highway noise around us. And we could see more development. But we were so grateful to hike in such a beautiful forest, that it didn’t bother us.
After several miles we left the woods for a short time to weave through an urban area and cross some train tracks. We re-entered the tree cover in the Versailles National Forest. It was composed of wooded sections, separated by rail tracks and highways.
Late in the morning we had a choice of routes to take, opting for one that climbed up to several Palace of Versailles viewpoints. We followed a local path with a yellow tree blaze rather than the red and white GR markings that we were accustomed to seeing.
After some climbing through the woods, we reached the viewpoints. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, construction of the Palace of Versailles began in 1623. It was the main residence of the French kings Louis XIV, Louis XV, and Louis XVI. We had toured Versailles before, and this time marveled at the view that we had from our vantage point as we ate lunch.
From the viewpoints we could also make out the Eiffel Tower in the distance.
Sighting of the Eiffel Tower in the distance from the viewpoints; Zoomed in Eiffel Tower photo
Before finishing our stage, we detoured to the Lake of the Swiss Guards. The lake was created in the late 17th century by a regiment of the Swiss Guards to enhance the southern view from the Palace of Versailles.
Exploring the Lake of the Swiss Guards adjacent to the Palace of Versailles
After exploring the lake, we walked a short distance to complete our day back at the hotel. Paris was not far away now as we had just 23.9 miles left to trek!
Reaching the Outskirts of Paris While Staying Cool
It was another hot day in the high 80s F, so we started a little earlier to cover our 15.2-mile distance. Thankfully, the GR22 path stayed in the forest tree cover and continued to keep us cool.
We only had to face the heat when we briefly moved from one forest section to another by crossing a street or a rail line.
When we reached the edge of Paris, we had a clearer view of the Eiffel Tower from the forested hills. Soon after, we took a long series of stairs down to the Seine River.
The last four miles of the stage had little shade and were challenging to hike in the heat. At one point we looked back to the forested hills from where we had come.
Fortunately, we found a cold water fountain in a park and refilled an almost empty bottle to stay hydrated. We walked along the Ile Saint Germain before turning off at the next bridge to make our way to our hotel in Boulogne-Billancourt.
Completing our Trekking France Journey at the Notre-Dame Cathedral
Our final trekking day in France was also the hottest, with a near record May temperature of 92 F. Luckily, we only had 8.7 miles left to hike.
We had been amazed at how much continuous forest we had hiked through almost our entire trek. And as we entered Paris, the trail surprised us again by routing us through several city parks with abundant tree cover.
Eventually, we left the parks for the last time and began walking next to the Seine River.
We took several detours to walk around the Eiffel Tower and the outside of the Louvre Museum, before returning to the river each time.
Detours to the Eiffel Tower and the Louvre Museum
Hiking through Paris was a full-circle moment for us. This was the first place in Europe we visited together shortly after getting married. As we walked, it was nice to reminisce about our previous Paris trips and to reflect back on our experiences during the 26 stages of this trek around France.
All too soon, we arrived on the Ile de la Cite and found ourselves at the Notre-Dame Cathedral of Paris.
It took us a few minutes to locate the Point Zero medallion in the forecourt of the cathedral, where we ended our 340-mile Trekking France journey!
Ending our 340-mile Trekking France journey at the Point Zero medallion in front of the Notre-Dame Cathedral
Louis XV decreed the Point Zero location in 1769 as the official starting point of the royal roads. The current medallion is inscribed with the phrase “point zéro des routes de France,” indicating it is the center of Paris. In 1924 it became the official reference point from which all road distances in France were measured to Paris. And it seemed appropriate to end our trek at this very location, where all roads lead to Paris.
A Special Visit to the Notre-Dame Cathedral
Having been to Paris several times, we had already visited the major sites. However, we had one special place we wanted to see, and that was the recently reopened Notre-Dame Cathedral. In April 2019 a fire damaged the roof, spire, and the upper walls of the interior. Fortunately, most of the inside of the cathedral was saved. The church reopened to the public in December 2024.
We were able to obtain timed tickets to visit the morning after our trekking finish.
Taking our time, we spent over an hour moving slowly through the interior of the cathedral. It was quite emotional to see the restoration and the wonderful condition inside.
Taking in the beauty of the restored cathedral
Restoration work, scheduled through 2027, is still continuing. During our visit we saw activity taking place along one of the interior walls.
Our cathedral visit kicked off our post-trek time in Paris. After a couple of days in “The City of Light,” we head back to the United States.
We are so grateful to complete our Trekking France journey, hiking 340 miles and 26 days along five different GR trails in four unique locations in France. Thanks for following our trek – we appreciate everyone’s support and comments!
Trekking France Start: April 16, 2026 – Le Puy Cathedral; Finish: May 25, 2026 – Notre-Dame Cathedral