April 20, 2026
The Camino Frances (“French road”) in Spain is the most popular trekking route to Santiago de Compostela, where pilgrims can view the relics of Saint James. One reason this path was given this name by the Spanish is because most of the pilgrims they saw actually came from France. Historically, there were four routes (Le Chemin de St. Jacques de Compostelle) beginning in today’s France that link up with the Camino Frances in Spain.
The French route originating in Le Puy-en-Valey is known as the Via Podiensis in Latin. Prior to becoming a Camino route, Le Puy was already a sacred destination. This was due to visits by Charlemagne, the Holy Roman Emperor, and a Santiago de Compostela pilgrimage journey in 950 by Le Puy’s Bishop Godescalc. By the Middle Ages pilgrims regularly visited Le Puy. The Via Podiensis became part of the Grande Randonnee (GR) network as the GR65 in the early 1970s.
Having completed the Camino Portugues to Santiago several years ago, we were drawn to the historic significance of the GR65 path to Spain. We were also intrigued by the promise of trekking through medieval French villages and tranquil countryside while experiencing a part of France not normally on the tourist path. So we planned a 10-day trek taking us from Le Puy west to Conques.
Exploring the Historic City of Le Puy-en-Velay
After our time in Cinque Terre, Italy, we traveled by a series of trains to Le Puy-en-Velay, France, to begin our first trek. Le Puy is located about 80 miles southwest of the city of Lyon. It has a rich history, with a cathedral, iconic statue, and chapel built on several volcanic points high above the city.
We took the opportunity to explore Le Puy the day before our trek began. Initially we walked through the narrow streets and squares while viewing some city murals.
Mural, street, and square views in Le Puy
As we headed to the main city sites, we climbed numerous stairs.
The UNESCO World Heritage Site Cathedral dates from the 11th century.
The altar features a Black Madonna statue. There is no historical consensus on why the statue is this color.
Within the church stood a pilgrim statue where blessings are given and prayers can be left for a safe hiking journey.
We especially enjoyed visiting the Cathedral’s beautiful cloister from the 11th to 12th centuries.
Touring the cloister adjacent to the Cathedral
Another climb took us to the Notre-Dame de France statue. It was constructed from the cast iron of 213 cannons from the Crimean War and dedicated in 1860.
From the base of the statue we had a nice view back to the Cathedral.
When we reached the base of the statue, we discovered that we could also climb inside to its head. This quickly became challenging due to the dizzying spiral staircase. As we entered the head, a final ladder took you to the very top. Darren opted to climb it, while I decided to stay behind.
Narrow spiral staircase inside the Notre-Dame de France statue; Darren climbing to the very top of the head on a ladder
Lastly, we climbed 268 steps to the top of the Saint Michel d’Aigulhe Chapel.
This site was first consecrated in the 10th century after Bishop Godescalc’s return from his Santiago pilgrimage.
Inside the chapel was a simple altar with a Saint Michael statue on the left and a series of vivid frescos in the interior.
The interior of the Saint Michel d’Aigulhe Chapel
From our vantage point we also enjoyed a view of the city and the other sites we had visited.
An Uphill Start to Our Trek
The next morning we left from the Le Puy Cathedral to begin our first day of trekking.
Posing in front of the Cathedral; taking our first GR65 steps
Soon after leaving we noticed a sign indicating the distance to Conques, our trekking destination, as well as to Santiago de Compostela for those who wanted to hike the entire Camino route.
As we left Le Puy, the trail climbed steeply. Surprisingly, we immediately began to encounter other hikers on the trail. Many GR65 accommodations don’t open until April 1st, so we figured we were still early in the hiking season. But we continued to see many people throughout the upcoming stages, as the section from Le Puy to Conques is the most popular in France.
The vast majority of hikers we encountered were French. We were greeted by a Bonjour or Bon Camino as we passed by, different than what we heard in Portugal (Bom Caminho) or Spain (Buen Camino) when we trekked there. Over the first stages we also met some Japanese, an Australian, and a handful of American trekkers.
After about a mile the trail flattened out, although the grade continued steadily uphill for the next 10 miles. We took a break in the village of Saint-Christophe-sur-Dolaizon, enjoying a beautiful rest area, complete with a bathroom and water fountain, next to its 12th century church.
Later, we stopped to view a 13th century church dedicated to Saint-Roch. Born in Montpellier, France in about 1350, he was a pilgrim and miracle worker. He is honored by Catholics on August 16 each year. Over the coming days we would see many sites dedicated to him.
After about 11.5 miles of hiking we reached the top of our climb just after the village of Montbonnet.
Completing the climbing after the village of Montbonnet
Soon after reaching the top, we needed to navigate down a steep path. As we viewed the hillsides. we saw that many trees were still barren from the winter, but a few were beginning to get their spring leaves and start blooming.
We completed our 14.7-mile stage in the village of Saint-Privat-d’Allier.
We checked into a private gite (hostel) room. Our rate included a communal dinner consisting of a Le Puy green lentil salad. These lentils have been grown in the region for more than 2,000 years. They are said to have a unique peppery flavor from the volcanic soil. The term Lentille verte du Puy is protected throughout the EU and can only be used for these specific lentils.
Our lentil salad was followed by a course of sausages and potatoes and a selection of local cheeses, accompanied by red wine.
A Stage of Towers, Bridges, and Chapels
At the beginning of our second 12.1-mile stage we headed toward the village of Monistrol-d’Allier. On the way we visited the 13th century Rochegude tower and chapel perched on a mountain top. The inside altar was beautiful as well.
Exploring Rochegude Tower
We had nice views from the mountain top into the valley below.
The route then took us straight downhill, with one steep section covered by large terra cotta roof tile pieces, making the footing even more precarious. Finally reaching Monistrol-d’Allier, we took a break in the town. Soon after, we crossed over the Allier River on a bridge that was built by Gustave Eiffel (of Eiffel Tower fame).
From there we began a 1,400 foot climb over about three miles. It was a tough ascent, with little shade. As we climbed, we took a breather to admire the 17th century Chapelle de la Madeleine that was built around a grotto. Unfortunately, we couldn’t go inside.
After reaching the top of the climb, the rest of the stage meandered through small villages. We came across fields with many cows and sheep. It was an idyllic setting.
Farm animals along the route
Now in the historic Gevaudan region, we began to see many signs and statues depicting the “Beast of Gevaudan.” Between 1764 and 1768 a mysterious animal was rumored to be responsible for the disappearance of about 60 people. It was never proven exactly what type of animal it was, so we saw different depictions as we hiked.
Just a couple of the “Beast of Gevaudan” signs / statues
We descended into the city of Saugues to end our stage.
Trekking through Local Villages and Wide Open Spaces
Thus far the weather had been in the high 60s / low 70s F, with some cool mornings. But when we set off from Saugues the next day it was a colder 45 F degrees. We got an early start for one of the longest stages of our GR65 trek – 17.2 miles. As we left town, we stopped at a bakery for fresh pastries and coffee, which we consumed as we walked.
Ordering pastries and coffee; View as we began the stage
The day’s route only featured one big climb of 500 feet over three miles. The rest of the stage took us along a series of gentle ascents and descents and through several sparsely populated villages, with populations not much higher than 100 people.
We enjoyed witnessing adults tending to their family farms and children playing outside.
Leaving another village; view of horses on a family farm
As we hiked, we saw more evidence of spring as we passed a field of daffodils.
We also took nice breaks near a more recently constructed tower and chapel.
Tower and Chapel views
Toward the end of the stage the villages disappeared. We were treated to wide open hillsides as we hiked on the Massif Central, a highland region that comprises about 15% of France.
Walking along the hillsides of the Massif Central
We left the route to end our stage in the village of Les Faux at a beautiful stone gite / hotel. Our communal dinner that night consisted of a tasty endive salad with ham and cheese chunks, followed by beef bourguignon with mashed potatoes, and chocolate mousse.
A Higher Elevation Stage leading into a Rest Day
Continuing our hike on the Massif Central, our fourth stage of hiking was characterized by a series of short and steep climbs and descents.
There was also some welcome flat trail, which made the miles feel easier than the previous stages. The route on the massif stayed high (generally over 3,000 feet) with sweeping views.
Views from the massif
Pine trees and rock formations were visible around us.
Pine trees and rock formations along the path
Occasionally the trail meandered through some thicker forest. Hiking here was peaceful, with no highway or overhead noise. Every so often, the silence was interrupted by the chirping of several types of birds in the forest, including the distinctive sound of the cuckoo.
At the end of the 13.5-mile stage we entered the town of Aumont-Aubrac, just as some rain clouds moved in.
Walking through Aumont-Aubrac (note the “Beast of Gevaudan” in the main square)
For dinner we enjoyed a regional speciality called aligot, a cheesy, mashed potato dish that has a surprising amount of elasticity.
We will be staying at a hotel here for the next two nights to enjoy a rest day after completing 58 miles of trekking since our start in Le Puy.
